Two Lathe Sunday as I manufacture a new Fly-Back Pusher.

TIM Lever 7 Jewels Shock Protected Stopwatch. Part 6

Two Lathe Sunday as I manufacture a new Fly-Back Pusher.

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Two Lathe Sunday

Stage 1: Start off by bringing out my Unimat SL 1000 Lathe to first turn down the 4mm stainless steel rod to 2.5mm at length of 11.5mm.

Stage 2: Turn down to 2.mm for a length of 10.5mm, check that the pusher fits into the fly-back pendant tube, which it does snugly.

Stage 3: 3mm of the end of work turn down to 1.7mm for the tapping the thread for the crown.

Stage 4: Tap the (No17) thread with threading plate and check the crown fits correctly.

Stage 5: Turn the workaround in the chuck and part off.

Time to get out of its box is my vintage G. Boley "Bevelled-bed" Branded "Telco", T.C. & M. Ltd

 6.5mm watchmakers lathe.

I needed this lathe so I could use the file rest and also set spring-loaded indent arm to lock the spindle.

Filed a Screw slot using a number 6 cut slotting file, now time to see if my manufactured pusher works,

So time to fit it in the watch case and then temporary replace the movement, and all works well.

Time to clear up the workshop and put the lathes away and set the bench for completing the stopwatch tomorrow!

TIM Lever 7 Jewels Shock Protected Stopwatch update

TIM Lever 7 Jewels Shock Protected Stopwatch update.

The NOS Breitling Dial has arrived; my modification on the watch is a NOS Breitling Dial. Breitling use this movement in their stopwatches, so I feel this is a legitimate modification for my watch, plus I like the look.

So just have to decide what look I’ll give the missing Button on the broken fly-back pusher which I will have to manufacture on the lathe.

TIM Lever 7 Jewels Shock Protected Stopwatch. Part 4

TIM Lever 7 Jewels Shock Protected Stopwatch. Part 4

Today was the assembly of The BFG Calibre 410 movement part 2 in the workshop.

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Oiling and greasing as I go, I start by replacing mainspring in barrel, Arbor and barrel cap. Then start on the train wheels, first replace the centre (Seconds) wheel and pinion followed by the complete barrel, then the third wheel and pinion, Minute recording wheel and pinion. It’s time to replace the Barrel Bridge.

Now time to refit the Escape wheel and pinion and then the Train Bridge. On to the click and spring, Ratchet wheel, Crown wheel with left-hand thread screw, test the train by winding the stem and putting power into the Mainspring, runs nice and freely.

Replace the Pallet Fork and Pallet Cock, then fit the complete Balance and the movement springs into life. Remove top Anti-Shock Jewel and clean and replace. Place movement on the timing machine and the readings are fine, will regulate it later.

Turn over the mainplate and replace the following items, operating lever spring, fly-back lever spring, hammer, whip, whip spring, blocking lever and finally the dial rest plate. Test the Start, Stop

And fly-back actions and all the motions are working well.

That’s it for this session, as I have to manufacture the complete fly-back pusher, and still waiting for the Breitling a replacement that I hope will fit movement!

TIM Lever 7 Jewels Shock Protected Stopwatch. Part 3

TIM Lever 7 Jewels Shock Protected Stopwatch. Part 3

Only a short time in the workshop today working on the TIM Lever 7 Jewels Shock Protected Stopwatch.

All parts cleaned, ready to assemble.

All parts cleaned, ready to assemble.

First I refitted and then polished the crystal with the bezel.

Polished the crystal 

Started the assembly of the BFG Calibre 410 movement.

Grease and fit the Pillar Wheel with the Left-Handed thread screw, then replace the Pillar Wheel jumper and spring.

Pillar Wheel jumper and spring.

Turn the movement mainplate and refit the Yoke. Then refit the Stem Cock, then I have to file a cut out in one of my plastic movement holders so movement lies flat in the holder.

Refit the Yoke. Then refit the Stem Cock

Grease and refit the Stem, Winding Pinion and Clutch wheel.

Refit the Stem, Winding Pinion and Clutch wheel.

Grease and refit the operating lever and the fly-back lever.

Refit the operating lever and the fly-back lever.

Grease and refit the blocking lever for the second's wheel.

Refit the blocking lever for the second's wheel.

Remove and clean the lower Antishock jewel, then replaced the cleaned lower Antichoc jewel.

Removed, cleaned and replaced the lower Antishock jewel

TIM LEVER 7 Jewels Shock Protected Stopwatch.Part 2

Session two today in my workshop with the TIM LEVER 7 Jewels Shock Protected Stopwatch.

Today I have removed the Seconds Hand from the Long Tube Heart. I needed to remove the second hand because I am hoping the NOS Breitling 45mm Dial I have purchased fits this watch.

Removed the tight fit Seconds Hand by slipping the Heart into the “vee” on the block to give maximum support to dial, and using flat head No:290 Bergeon Stake and Dial protector and two light taps with a hammer, hey presto off and no damage!

Stripped the Barrel down, and the mainspring and barrel really clean for a 1970s watch. 

Also found a crown that I may use for The Fly-Back pusher, but may make one when I have the lathe set up to make the broken pusher.

So all set to clean all the parts.   

TIM LEVER 7 Jewels Shock Protected Stopwatch

An interesting time in the workshop today, as I started working on my first Stop Watch. This one is a Swiss Made TIM LEVER 7 Jewels Shock Protected, and the movement is a (BFG) BAUMGARTNER FRERES S. A. GRENCHEN (Suisse), Calibre 410. This calibre is used by Breitling on some of their stopwatches, so movement is of good quality. Rear case markings are Antimagnetic – Self Compensating - Shock Protected.

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First I had to remove the front bezel to get to the movement as the back of the case is made part of the case. (Crystal needs refitting into Bezel).

Next, remove hands, small minute hand removed normally, but the second would not budge, so removed the dial (2 Screws). The dial easily came away, and looking under the dial the Second hand is fitted to a heart-shaped cam, so left that alone for the time being. Will leave the cam in cleaning jar, while the dial not touching the fluid.

 Next, I removed the fly-back lever, so I could remove the broken fly-back pusher. Don’t think I’ll get a replacement for this, so will have to make one on Boley 6.5mm Watchmakers lathe later.

The movement came free from the case with just a plastic stem bridge part holding the movement in.

So taking photographs I go, I completely deconstruct the rest of the movement.

Found the parts sheet online for the movement, so put part numbers in the picture info section.

So just need to release the Second hand from the dial, and strip down the barrel before cleaning the parts.